Cat Grooming Advice

I know that over 60% of cats are acquired free. Their maintenance costs are relatively low compared to dogs. Some never go outside. So why do I require proof of vaccines for every first time visitor to my grooming salon? It is for the protection and long-term health for every client who visits.  Certainly when you travel abroad, you make sure all your vaccines are up-to-date and new potential threats (whether Immondium or Hep C) are taken care of. I want all clients to have peace of mind knowing that an effort has been made to reduce any possible risk of exposing their beloved pet to viruses and diseases during their visit to the groomer.

In Ontario, all cats and dogs are required to be vaccinated for rabies, even if your cat is an indoor cat. It IS the law and mandatory. Should your cat bite a house guest, or groomer, it must be reported to health officials. Without proof of rabies vaccinations, the cat will be placed in quarantine. This is an ugly situation easily avoided.

It may surprise you that cats have more contagious diseases than dogs and that they are easily spread and can be fatal. Cats  are especially good at hiding illness. They are very susceptible to airborne respiratory viruses, diseases that are transmitted by cat bites and scratches, and  other contagious viruses transmitted through body fluids. So unless you own one single cat its entire life, and it never leaves the house, nor do other cats come in, you are putting your cat at serious risk without vaccinations. 

Having said that, I should point out that not every cat needs to be vaccinated for every disease. There are core vaccines, started during kitten-hood, and there are non-core vaccines that are critical in protecting your cat if it has an indoor/outdoor lifestyle.

The core vaccines are against Panleukopenia (feline distemper), Feline Calicivirus, and Feline  Rhinotracheitis (Feline Herpes). In short form, this vaccine is called the FVRCP and it is administered every four weeks ideally starting at 7-9 weeks, then 12 weeks, and finally at 16 weeks along with the rabies vaccine. Each cat needs three rounds of the FVRCP to be fully protected. 

If you have acquired a re-homed adult cat with no vaccination history, I strongly recommend following the same vaccine protocol no matter what its age and get tested for FeLV as well.

Non-core vaccines your cat may need if it has an indoor/outdoor lifestyle are: Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) , Chylamydophile felis, Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) and Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP). These are administered starting at 12 weeks and again at 16 weeks. These diseases are transmitted by bites, body fluids, and are highly contagious. They create chronic immune compromised diseases and infections and it is a terrible, long, drawn out way to suffer. FeLV is the leading cause of illness and death in cats and part of the reason outdoor cats typically have less than half the lifespan of their indoor peers, aside from being killed by cars or poisoning.

Once your cat is fully vaccinated, it is up to you and your vet to determine the lifelong vaccination schedule. Some recommend annually, others do not. My only requirement is that vaccinations have occurred. I do not think any client would be thrilled in knowing there were unvaccinated cats in the same room as their own vaccinated pet, even though surfaces, tools and hands are disinfected between clients.

I believe in maintaining high standards of care for the long-term well-being of every animal and owner who visit my salon. If you object to spending money to protect the health of your cat and others by not vaccinating, than I am not the feline grooming salon for you. 

The last in the series, of “Cat Grooming, You’re Doing it Wrong”,  we talk about products that are marketed for felines. By products, I mean items that are used on the coat of the cat.

Standing in the aisles of most pet supply stores, you will first notice a deficient of tools and products specifically for cats. Most are dog-centric have just been repackaged for cats. This can be dangerous and does a disservice to cats.

Never ever use ANY product that is meant for a dog on a cat. It may contain ingredients that are very toxic or even fatal if licked by the cat. This is particularly critical for any flea control products. Use a cat-specific labelled product only. This is for drops, flea collars, shampoo, foam, premise spray, etc.

The most popular cat shampoos marketed typically have a conditioner in it. I suppose it is meant to control the static electricity commonly associated with fine hair. The problem is that cats are naturally greasy. In fact, they are greasier than dogs. It makes no sense to add oil (conditioner) to a coat that is already amuck with grease. You best choice is a natural degreasing shampoo to thoroughly wash the skin and hair. Damp cat hair should squeak when it is clean. This doesn’t happen with any cat shampoo I’ve ever seen in a pet supply store. So although you may has “washed” the cat, it really isn’t clean. It’s still greasy. It is no wonder that pet groomers get frustrated with the results of attempting to wash a cat with poor results. They are using the wrong products.

Show cat fanciers used to use four separate steps to adequately wash and prepare their cats for shows. Some still do. Some will use solvents, Dawn, d’limonene, to get the grease out of the hair. Followed by a hypo allergenic products to get any gear easer residue out in the final step. It doesn’t need to be that complicated anymore. I use Chubbs Bars. It is an organic degreasing shampoo that can degrease most cats in just two washes. It uses no solvents, or anything else that is potentially harmful to a cat. Just simple old fashion clean.

Have you ever shampooed your hair using wipes? What kind of result do you think you would get? The result is about the same on a cat. It might smell perfumed for an hour from the chemicals on the wipe, but it didn’t succeed in getting your cat any cleaner. Use wipes if it makes you feel better.

De-tangler sprays for cats is a bit of a farce because you cannot de-tangle cat hair. Once the hair has started to bond with other hairs the only thing that can be done it to ease the mat out by pulling it out of the coat. It won’t magically come undone. Pulling on wet sprayed hair damages and stretches the hair follicles even more. In fact, trying to comb out mats on a dirty cat is tantamount to torture. The hair is locked up and pulling it out hurts. No wonder kitty isn’t happy when you try and do it. If the mats haven’t interlocked into a pelt (which then requires a shave down) than the mats must worked gently out of the coat only AFTER the cat has had a proper degreasing bath, followed by a velocity drying to loosen and blow apart the mats. It is the only humane and effect way to remove the knots on a cat. If you have a matted cat and decide to wash it at home, never let it run around to air dry otherwise the mats will shrink and bind only tighter.

As I have blogged before, only a show cat with 2-3 baths a week regime may ever need conditioner. Dandruff is dead skin on cats, NOT dry skin. If you have a very staticky kitty, you can use a metal comb and a light misting of plain water to neutralize the ions. For hardcore problems, look at increasing the humidity in your home or buying Biogroom anti-static spray. It doesn’t add oil and it is safe for cats. It’s what we professionals use.

Ears have delicate tissue, but it does get waxy at times. You don’t need any fancy ear cleaner that may have alcohol or oil in it. I like to use witch hazel.

Eye cleaner are need for flat-faced breeds like Persians or Exotic Short-hairs. Their eye ducts frequently don’t drain as easily as the longer nosed breeds and staining results. The staining is caused by protein deposited on the hair. You can buy the fancy stain removal products ( this is the one area that cat and dog product crossover is safe) but a simpler and less costly alternative is to use saline contact lens solution. The same stuff you rinse your contacts in before putting it you own eye. Don’t use the red-tipped protein busting solution.

So as you may have noticed, most of the cat products on the shelf in your local pet store is junk. If your cat’s grooming needs are getting beyond your comfort zone, or becoming a point of contention in your relationship with your cat, call a Certified Feline Master Groomer for help or advise.

In part 1 we talked about raising your expectations for cat grooming. There is no reason to expect less in cat grooming than dog grooming and be charged more. When we talk about tools, we are talking about the equipment used to groom our cats.  With varying degrees of tolerance, even from day-to-day, cats may give you only a small window of opportunity for at-home combing. You must be prepared and make the most of every second you have and have the right tools.

If you go to the local pet supply store you will either face a complete lack of grooming tools or tools that are identical to dog grooming tools except typically coloured in pink or purple and on a slightly smaller scale. Dogs have 8 different types of coat, cats only really have one type of coat, but it varies in length and in the volume of undercoat. 

My dog grooming kit is a workshop cabinet. It has three drawers full of brushes, combs, clippers, stripping knives, clipper blades, products, and spare parts. Over the years I have pared down my tools in what works best and avoid duplication. It’s still a cabinet full. My cat grooming kit is contained in a tiny tool box. That is all I really need to effectively and humanely groom a cat, aside from cat-appropriate clippers for lion and teddybear trims.

I will share with you what is in the cat tool box, by telling you what is NOT in it. 

1. NO slicker/wire brushes. This might work well for dogs, but is a big no-no for cats. You can demat dogs using slickers carefully, but you cannot demat cat hair. The only thing a slicker-type brush accomplishes on a cat is damaging the hair by damaging the hair follicles and scratching the skin.

2. No pin brushes. This is great for long coated dogs but rather useless on cats. Cat hair is too fine and any small mats will be missed.

3. No cat nail clippers that have holes for fingers or guillotine style nail clippers. Use a small scissor-type nail clipper instead. Cats can be wiggly. There is nothing more annoying and potentially dangerous than nail clippers you can’t immediately drop or disengage from because it is wrapped around your fingers or a nail. Safety first.

For at-home grooming the only tool you will need for a medium to long-haired cat is an aluminium “Greyhound-style” comb with coarse teeth on one end, and fine teeth on the other. The coarsely spaced teeth are good for easing out small mats and combing out the tail. The fine-toothed side is excellent for general body combing and removing loose hair.

For short-haired cats I recommend a rubber curry or boar bristle palm brush. These will remove the loose hair when used in a circular motion, followed by a sweeping motion. Most cats enjoy this type of grooming and it is an excellent entry level of grooming even for longer haired cats. It may not be effective on long-haired cats but it is a good training step to build tolerance and trust before the comb. Don’t dwell in this phase too long for your long-haired cat, otherwise your cat will mat without regular combing. 

Always use a comb on the body to check your work on short or long hair. (Yes short-haired cats can and do mat). Your work is done when it glides easily through the whole coat. This is the professional groomer’s secret for all pets.

Location is another important tool. If you have a lap kitty, your lap will do fine as the grooming location. If you have a a cat who is more independent or prefers to bolt after a few strokes with a comb, find a location that is high and smooth. A smooth surface works in your favor and advantage. Give a cat traction and they are more likely to give you a hard time. This could mean the top of the washing machine (when it is off), a table top, counter, etc., the point is to be consistant. Use the same location every time and treats and favourite toys everytime. This is training time. Don’t expect to accomplish more than a 1/4 of a cat the first few times. With a patient attitude, speedy and efficient technique, you’ll be able to do more each time. Never try to tether your cat like a dog. You run the risk of serious injury should they decide to make a jump for it. 

If you have a cat that tries to constantly avoid the situation, you may need to scruff them gently but firmly by the back of the neck just as momma cat used to do. This is only done with all four paws still on the ground. Use scruffing only for a few moments while you comb the underside or backend; those difficult to get to, but very necessary spots. It will give some measure of control and safety from biting should your kitty object. Speed and efficiency are necessary skills when it comes to combing certain personalities.

One other tool in my kitty arsenal is a Furminator-type shedding blade. I do not recommend using one of these tools at home. I have seen a lot of damage done to cats and dogs by improper use. If you really do want to use one of these shedding blades  be sure to take your tool to a professional groomer and get a lesson in its proper useage. You must learn what to do with the blade to make it safer for use before ever applying it to the hair and skin of your pet, plus where it can or can’t be used.

In summary, all you need at home is good quality comb, a bristle or curry palm brush, and scissor type nail clippers sans finger holes.

Next week we will talk about cat grooming products.

Cat grooming is filled with misdirected good intentions, misinformation, misconceptions, myths, and just flat out ignorance. We take horse grooming to a higher level than the feline that resides in our house, walks our counters, and sleeps with our kids. So why the blind spot? Why the incredibly low expectations?

Most uneducated attempts at cat grooming are a miss at best, and frequently a fail. It is doing your cat a serious disservice to it’s long-term health, it’s mental well-being, and your enjoyment of your pet. Let’s face it, if it smells funky, feels greasy, looks dandruffy, or has chunks sprouting down it’s back, how much time do you spend playing and cuddling it? It’s more like having a roommate you avoid that doesn’t wash.

New clients are often very apologetic. They believe their cat to be a self-grooming flunky. They don’t know why the cat is in the state it’s in.  We expect the cat to stay beautiful and clean all on it’s own because it spreads lots of time spreading spit all over it’s hair. Hygiene standards changed for dogs when they stopped working for a living and we brought them indoors. The same should go for cats. I don’t know any Pekingese who doesn’t need regular brushing and bathing, why would a Persian be any different? If you do not have the time, or are unsuccessful in developing an enjoyable grooming routine with your pet, seek professional help for their health and well-being. You owe to them, as a responsible pet owner.

Owners and even pet groomers give-up or have incredibly low expectations when it comes to grooming cats. Here are a few of the statements or accepted norms/myths I encounter regularly, that as a professional, I have to debunk.

“Just comb out the mats” 

You can’t detangle fine cat hair once it mats. It must be pulled out. Pulling on mats is a great way to piss off the kitty, because IT HURTS. Loose hair + moisture + grease/dirt =  MATS. Even if you pulled out the mats, they’ve already started elsewhere and be back even sooner because you’ve damaged the hair cuticles by combing when its dirty. You’ve done nothing to prevent it from happen again or to break the cycle.

“Just shave out the mats”

Some cats really don’t like clippers. Then there’s the really bizarre looking reverse mohawk/baboon butt  creature wandering around your house after the chunks have been shaven off. Course it still is greasy, dandruffy, dirty and has the aroma of a litter-box. Don’t you feel proud to share your living space with this poor creature?

“Just do a lion clip”

Do you get a better haircut if the barber just wets your hair with a spray bottle, or when you get a massaging hair wash and blow dry by a stylist?  The results are dramatically different, you feel different. Now the cat just looks and feels naked AND dirty. That makes for a vengeful kitty. Doing an annual dirty shave-down because your cat is matted is inhumane and unhygienic. This is a house pet, not livestock like sheep or alpacas. Stop making excuses. There are better alternatives.

As a professional, I will not do or recommend any course of action I know is not a long-term solution for you and your cat. If I lower my standards, how could I be a professional? I would never do the “just” minimal with a dog groom, why would I do it to a cat?  Your cat can be trained and pampered too,  differently than a dog, but with the same goal and end result.

RAISE YOUR EXPECTATIONS. Your kitty will thank you for it. Most cats do enjoy being bathed and blow-dried. They particularly love how they feel afterwards and seek your admiration and affection. 

All cats benefit from regular baths and grooming, but if your cat is any of the following issues: long-haired, over-weight, elderly,  diabetes, kidney problems, depression, hairballs, dietary issues, or any number of well hidden feline health issues, you can improve their quality of life dramatically. How dramatic? We often have  clients who don’t recognize their own cat after just a professional bath and comb (no trimming).You just have to raise your expectations and try just one professional groom by a Certified Feline Master Groomer.  

Reveal the glamour puss you may not realize you own. 

Excellent question!!

Typically in the working world there are three words that accompany the higher paying jobs: dirty, difficult, and dangerous.

I have been a professional pet groomer for many years and I have to be honest and tell you that pet groomers are very under paid and under appreciated for what they do. Pet grooming is very dirty, from feces, to fleas, to inhaling dander. It is difficult; hard on your back, feet, hands, and it gets very hard when you have uncooperative clients. It can be dangerous from parasites, strain injuries, falls, and bites. 

Dog Grooming:
If you compared the square inches on a person’s skull and what a hairdresser will charge you, for just a wash and trim, it would be on par to the square inches of a Yorkshire Terrier. We don’t get a mani-pedi, Brazilian, ears cleaned included. We also usually sit still and don’t try and bite our hairstylist. So when we encounter clients who complain why does it cost so much for a dog groom, they simply haven’t considered the education and skill, the amount of products, metered water and electricity during peak hours, and the time to comb out. Pet grooming is very energy intensive.
Hair stylists have two kinds of hair to content with: straight and curly. A good stylist will go to trade shows to stay current with styles and techniques. Dog stylists have to content with eight different types of dog hair and a vast variety of breed specific styles and pet trims. Education for a quality groomer is also ongoing as equipment, styles, and products advance.

Cat Grooming:
Cats generally have two types of hair and three lengths. A few exceptions would be some of the rare wire-coated breeds, wavy coated, and hair-less. By the square inch, cats have more real estate than a person’s skull but a lot less than most dogs. Cats have very fine hair and it takes longer to dry per square inch than dog or human, plus they like to make it more difficult by staying tucked up and making the underside inaccessible to drying.

Pet groomers do not receive training on grooming cats, therefore when an attempt to groom cats with dog-centric equipment, products, and process goes amuck it can become very dangerous for the groomer and the cat. Cats are contortionists, own 18 weapons of mass destruction they aren’t afraid to use, and have teeth that puncture a deep wound and infect the blood stream. Dog bites can be messy, but they are easy to clean. A bad cat bite can end your career.

If you are not paying attention to the very subtle warning signs of tension, a pet groomer can get caught by a “sudden” attack, or attempt at escape. It is no wonder many groomers will not groom cats or minimize contact by just spot shaving, or running a comb over a dirty, dandruffy cat with a nail trim for $50. A grooming (shave down) at the veterinary clinic will include sedation for the safety of the vet tech, and in our area will run about $300 and they aren’t stylists. None of these services include solving the cause of the mats and dandruff in the first place; it’s dirty and greasy and needs a bath.

Now that I have explained the “3 D’s” of why it is more expensive to groom cats, I can also offer hope. With proper training and certification, there are some groomers who are truly qualified to groom your cat, in a safe, feline sensitive environment. Please look for a Certified Feline Master Groomer in your area. As they are a rare commodity, they do have the right to charge in a manner that gives value to their skill and knowledge in providing the best care and solutions for your cat.

As the Ottawa Human Society’s volunteer cat groomer, I can attest that all the cats I groom there have never encountered any professional grooming before. To date, none have needed to be sedated or required more than just myself in handling, bathing and drying these grateful kitties. Every one of the cats I groom at the OHS receives a bath as a minimum, because it rejuvenates and cleans their skin and hair, and they feel much better afterwards. They get a fresh start. and a better chance for adoption. If grooming stray cats can be done in a productive, life-enhancing manner, why not spoil yours at a cat spa designed for cats?

A Teddy Bear Trim (aka, comb trim, cat’s pyjama trim) is a longer styling option for felines. When done correctly, it is an adorable, low maintenance style for your cat that varies between 3/8″ to 1 ” long depending on the owner’s preference and the most attractive length for your feline’s hair and physique. Mane and tail lengths are customized.

This is a very specialized and advanced trim for felines, so I can only recommend it be attempted by a proper Certified Feline Master Groomer. There are no scissors or naked clipper blades used for this style. If the hair is not properly cleansed, prepared and trimmed using the most cat appropriate products and equipment, the results will be VERY disappointing. It will look like your cat fought, and lost, to a weed wacker.

Reasons to consider a teddy bear trim:

• It’s adorable when done correctly
• Lower maintenance demands between grooming appointments
• Reduces shedding
• Reduces problems with hairballs
• Not as extreme in appearance as a lion trim
• For people who want a stylin kitty but prefer the clothes left on
  
  
  

Reasons not to have a teddy bear trim:

• Your cat is overly aggressive or very nervous/shy. The styling process demands a patient kitty. Trimming is only possible after proper cleansing, blow-drying, combing, and possible dematting. If your cat is not tolerant, it is unfair to inflict a longer grooming session than necessary. A bath n comb package would be a better option.
• Your cat is very matted. Your best option is to get a lion clip first, let it grow out for a few weeks, and then schedule a regular grooming appointment to keep your kitty at the best teddy bear length.
• Your cat is elderly or has a medical issue. This is a case-by-case decision as the feline stylist has to take into consideration the temperament, health of skin and hair, lifestyle of the cat, and the grooming maintenance plan the owner can adhere to.
  
  
  

Is trimming a cat cruel?

• Cat’s don’t have to dwell in the Dark Ages or be second-class pet citizens any more. If it has skin and hair, and lives in your house, surely you can understand the need to have roommates wash at least once a season as a minimum. They actually really enjoy the process and share how fabulous they feel afterwards.
• Unlike many breeds of dogs, cats can have their hair shaved or trimmed with no effect on the regrowth. Once the hair is totally grown out, many champion cats re-enter the show ring and the judge is none the wiser. This isn’t possible in the dog show ring ring as the damage done by clipping or shaving is very evident and not reversible. So the decision to shave or trim your cat is not about the possibility of damaging the hair.
• Trimming whiskers, the head, cheeks and legs does constitute as dangerous and unnecessary and no true feline professional would consider complying with such a request.
• No different than dogs, cats can be introduced sensitively and with understanding to professional grooming. There is always a learning curve for each new visitor, no matter what age they are started at. In my experience, cats learn at the same rate as dogs in trusting their groomer and  becoming familiar with the equipment and process. The difference is the equipment and process is different, from start to finish, for a cat vs. a dog and that is comes down to proper education and training.

Lion trims polarize opinions in cat owners.  Whether you think they are adorable or ugly, will solve your shedding and allergies problems, here’s what you truly need to know before booking in that appointment.

First, what is a “Lion Shave”?
 A  classic “Lion Shave” is the  shaving the body and belly of a long or short-haired feline smooth, to the skin with varying options of shaving the tail, leaving a traditional “tuff” at the end and leaving the neck ruff according to the owners preference or condition of the cat.  It should NOT include the head or cheeks, or the limbs and paws as these are all very sensitive areas with tendons and whiskers, plus  very easy to nick . There is no professional justification to shave these areas. Cats have very flexible and thin skin and it is very easy for a pet groomer to accidentally cut your cat simply by using the same tools and grooming routine as they would for a dog. Please never attempt a lion shave at home, and find a certified master cat groomer in your area.

Reasons to consider a lion shave:

• Cat is very matted to the skin and it is the only humane option.

Reasons owners “think” they need a lion-shave:

• Owner or family member is allergic to cat and rather than give it up, shave it. 
• Cat is obese and can’t “groom itself”
• To keep a longhaired cat “cooler” for summer
• Cat is an heavy shedder or suffers from excessive hairballs 
• Cat has irregular hair growth stemming from an underlying health problem
• Chronic flea problems. Owner can closely monitor any re-infestations.
• Owner lifestyle preference 

What a lion shave will NOT do:

• Prevent mats from occurring again. Only a proper de-greasing bath followed by a professional blow-dry on a regular schedule will prevent mats. A conscientious cat owner can easily break the cycle of oscillating from dirty shave-down to dirty shave-down with a regular professional bath n comb schedule.
• Stop shedding indefinitely. Once the hair starts to grows out, the shedding cycle starts again. A regular bath and comb routine is the best strategy to reduce shedding.
• Keep your long-haired cat cooler. Cats don’t sweat through their skin like humans, BUT if the hair is matted, it creates a barrier trapping the heat in.  Regular professional grooming reduces loose hair and permits air to circulate through the fur freely, as it was meant to, providing both a cooling and warming effect depending on the season.
• Absolve the owner from a regular grooming schedule. Oscillating from severely matted to shave-downs is willful neglect and irresponsible on the part of the cat owner.

Reasons NOT to do the lion shave:

• Repeated shaving causes follicular dysplasia and occlusions, to the detriment of your cat’s skin and hair health.
• Cat skin is 30% more absorbent of it’s environment than human skin. You have removed natural defences to toxins, parasites, etc.
• Your cat is elderly or has a delicate physiology. The skin is very thin and often dehydrated, plus over a bony structure and therefore very easy to nick.
• Your cat has an underlying health condition. Whether it is diabetes, heart condition, or autoimmune diseases, the risks outweigh any benefit, plus be warned, the hair may never grow back in.
• Your cat is aggressive or intolerant. Sharp instruments mixed with a defensive cat can only have disastrous results. Cats that don’t tolerate any handling at home are not good candidates for lion trims. Lion trims are the most invasive type of grooming, requiring precision and lots of rolling, stretching,  and clippers in sensitive areas. An intolerant cat does much better with a regular (and more forgiving) comb trims or bath n comb schedules to keep them in good condition. Just not the precision shaving with clippers. If the cat is very matted and aggressive, it may be referred to being groomed under veterinary care for its own safety.

Is shaving a cat cruel?

• If it is matted, NOT shaving the cat is cruel. There could be parasites, bruising, or sores lurking under that pelt, not to mention the possibility of a septic cat with poop stuck to it’s rear end. It’s grumpy and doesn’t move much because every step hurts with the hair pulling tighter and tighter every day. Cat torture by neglect.

Is there a better option?

Many cat owners aren’t aware that a regular pajamas trim can resolve all the perceived “hair” issues without the extreme of destructive shaving. A pajamas trim clippers the hair about 4 to 26 mm away from the skin surface, greatly reducing risks from clipper nicks, follicular dysplasia and occlusions, along with keeping the cat cleaner longer without shaving.

For allergy suffers, a regular bath routine will remove the dander and saliva which is the source of proteins causing reactions. It is NOT the hair!

Another option is just shaving some problem areas like the belly, inner thighs, and sani- area. You can keep the full-coated look and tame the gnarly feline underworld. 

Photos of Lion Shave Variations:

It’s officially winter.

Now that the windows are closed and the indoor heating is on, we have a lot of static charge building up in our homes. This affects not only us but our pets.

Static is caused when two different objects with opposing (positive and a negative) ion charge are rubbed together. The electrons from one object is then transferred to the other causing them to take on the same charge. Just like magnets, when you have two objects with the same charge, they will repel one another, making the hair stand on end.

The minute the temperature dips and the air dries up, electrons, which are negatively-charged, fly off  hair, leaving the strands with positive charges that resist one another. Thus cats with thin, limp, fine and otherwise vulnerable hair are hit hard with static.

Here are some steps to avoid a static kitty.

1. Get rid of your plastic combs or brushes. Plastic is such an excellent conductor of electricity, that in high school experiments to show how to create static and sparks,  they use cat hair (no kidding) and a plastic rod rubbed together (that’s also why the rub a ballon on your hair and stick it to the wall trick works so well). Do not torture your cat by duplicating a high school experiment for your grooming routine.

2. Do wash your cat, (as there is nothing more unsightly than a greasy but staticy cat), in a effective, cleansing cat appropriate shampoo (like Chubbs Bars) but add a very l-i-g-h-t mist of Argan oil while still damp before you blow dry. You cannot add any Argan oil unless your cat is squeaky clean (literally) during the final rinse. You don’t want to increase grease to your cat by adding conditioner or oil to still greasy hair. Too little argan oil is much better than too much.

3. Before brushing, lightly mist with water, preferably distilled water. It will neutralize ions and reduce hair breakage. This pre-step should be done year-round as part of your grooming routine.

4. Blow dry with a ion reducing blowdryer. It does make a difference.

5. Use metal combs or grooming tools. They will absorb much of the static charge build-up. In fact you can gently rub your cat with a metal clothes hanger it will calm the hair during a major static attack. Introduce it carefully, as you don’t want to spook your cat.

6. If you have a major static attack happening, I would do the following: mist lightly with water, use a metal comb that I have pre-stroked with a dryer sheet. Do NOT rub the dryer sheet on your cat. Remember they lick themselves and will ingest chemicals otherwise.

7. Reduce static in your home by increasing the humidity in the air. This can be done by using a humidifier, or running a steamy shower. If you have an ongoing static problem, you need to add moisture to the air. It will make the home environment more comfortable for your cat and you.

8. Have your cat professionally groomed to remove impurities that attract dirt and restore a healthy balance of ions in the skin and hair.

Take a good look at your cat. Does it have large flakes down the back? Does it feel a bit greasy, and does the hair separate? The good news is, your cat is not suffering from dry skin or hair. If it has dry skin, the flakes would be very tiny and there would be evidence of dryness on other parts of the body. If you check its belly, you’ll see the dry skin clearly. It is actually rare to see dry skin on a cat, because they are naturally oily.

But if you have large white/yellow flakes down the back, you have either seborrheic dermatitis, or cat that is so dirty that the oil, skin cells, and dried saliva has built up to the point of flakey kitty pastry, and a potent allergen concoction. That’s right, it is depositing its skin, grease, and salvia all over your clothes, furniture, bed, and home. Yummy.

Typical story: We have a new client who has a short haired cat that was always full of dandruff and getting mats down its back. Previous “professional” help had consisted of combing out the mats on an ever increasing cycle. The problem was happening more frequently and worse each time. She was frustrated and grossed out. Visiting our salon, we inquired as to the last time the cat had had a bath. The shocked owner replied that the cat had never been bathed in its entire 8 year life….to be continued.

The chances of having dandruff increases with age and being male (just like humans, there are more oil producing glands due to hormones, making men more prone to dandruff), although females can still have dandruff too. Other important factors is a diet that is lacking in fats, vitamin B, and zinc. So you may need to re-evaluate the quality of your cat’s food. What goes in, reflects on the exterior and you will need at least 6 weeks to see a difference. Dandruff can also be due to stress or an undiagnoised illness. If your cat is on a good quality diet, gets a thumbs up from the vet on its health, then you have a dirty cat. Plain and simple.

Many people unknowingly believe the dandruff and often accompanying static is caused by dry skin. Not so. Probably the worst thing you can do is put oily conditioner on top of an already greasy cat. Static problems have more to do with an exchange of positive electrons than dryness, but that is a subject for another blog.

So if you want to effectively resolve dandruff here are some typical band-aid solutions that WILL NOT WORK:

1. Brushing and combing – a good daily practice to remove loose hair and exfoliate the skin, but will not remove existing dandruff in the hair or on the skin. It just helps spread it around more.

2. Wipes or drybath sprays – it might wipe the surface, but doesn’t get to the root cause. Not an effective useful long-term solution.

3. Conditioning sprays – please no. This will make your cat greaser and still not solve your problem. Yuck.

Think logically here, and put all those myths you’ve heard about cats to one side for a moment.The only way to effectively resolve dandruff is to remove the oil and dander by proper cleansing the hair and skin by bathing with a cat appropriate shampoo and thorough rinsing to flush away all the residue. One without conditioner. You must then establish a regular washing schedule.

Getting back to our dandruffy cat story:

After some convincing the owner, desperate for a solution, relented and allowed us to bathe and properly groom her cat, start to finish. After 4 wash/rinse cycles to remove 8 years of typical cat owning ignorance (not her fault), the dandruff and mats were gone. The hair was smooth and shiny, and you could clearly see the tabby stripping that had been obscured since adolesence. The cat was grateful, purring, and happy. The owner was astonished at the difference and rebooked for another wash in six weeks.

I know you are surprised that the cat was getting another bath in “only” six weeks. Sure enough, when the owner arrived, you could see just the beginning of new dandruff, he was starting to get greasy again, and the owner was happy to report that there had not been any shedding hair or dandruff up until just a few days before and that brushing in the meantime had been unnecessary. It was the perfect time to have another bath and blow dry to prevent any problems and keep him clean. The owner immediately rebooked her cat for another appointment in six weeks. She had the seen the light, and it was a clean and happy cat. Simply washing it on a regular schedule had made a big difference in their quality of life together and had eliminated the dandruff.