Cat Grooming Advice

I spent the last two weekends speaking at local pet events about the feline care and trying to bring them into 21st century standards of hygiene. The audience was overwhelmingly positive (hooray!) and recognized that their cats where pretty dirty, however frozen with fear at the notion of undertaking a cat bath themselves.

Well, you don’t have to. That’s why our business exists. To help you and your feline maintain a peaceful and healthy relationship. If you are determined to take the plunge, let me help with some advice and suggestions. Preparation and planning are the keys.

Desensitizing may be necessary for some, especially those with a previous bad experience. Usually those with absolutely no experience do fine, as long as you go slowly. Desensitizing means running water and/or blowdrying in the background paired with positive things, like treats, toys, playtime. We are trying to reduce a cat’s natural tendency to bolt when they are unsure of a situation. This may take a day or two, or weeks, depending on your cat’s individual tolerance and social skills. If these sounds can be happening in the same room without a disappearance act, you are ready.

Things to think about ahead of time:

B. Have your cat thoroughly combed out, not brushed. If your cat is matted, stop now. You definitely need professional help. Bathing a matted cat at home will only result in larger and tighter mats. Call a professional to help get your cat back on track, and then you may be able to consider continuing the maintenance at home.

C. Bath location. It must be up high to make the cat feel secure, and not so deep that it becomes an echo chamber. This means the bathtub is ruled out for the majority of cats. Kitchen sinks work well, especially if they have a flexible hose.

D. Shampoo. If you are going to undertake bathing a cat, you want good results with minimal fuss. Human and pet shampoos are not designed for a cat’s naturally greasy hair. They are designed for dogs. Cat specific shampoos are so benign that they don’t work at all.  You need to find a safe shampoo that can cut the grease easily, but no ingredients that are toxic when ingested. This means no d’limonene, essential oils, solvents, dish detergent, or aloe (a common ingredient in cat shampoos thats on the ASPCA Pet Poison list.  I use mostly organic, vegan Chubbs Bars because it is cat safe and does a fabulous job in purifying dirty skin and hair.

E.Attitude. You must remain calm and in control at all times. Patience and understanding is a requirement for this to be a good experience.

Bath Day:

1. I recommend wearing long sleeves. Assemble your bath kit and have everything in arm’s length: Minimum 2 towels, cup for rinsing if no hose available, shampoo, witch hazel for ear cleaning, cotton balls, baby washcloth for face washing, nail trimmers, blow dryer, fine-toothed steel comb. Lay the towels open ready to receive a wet cat.

2. Start running the warm water in the sink from the hose. If you have no hose, fill the basin with warm water. Keep the sound of water running in the background while you move onto the next step.

3. Bring your cat within 10 feet of the sink. With treats or toys available, trim your cats nails FIRST. They have 18+ claws and are not hesitant in using you as a scratching post. Be sensible and disarm them. If your cat is a wiggler, escape artist, or potentially aggressive, wrap them in a towel and extract one paw at a time to do the job. Timid cats often feel more secure if their heads are under the towel.

4. This is the critical and sensitive step. Bring your cat slowly over to the sink. Be prepared for the flight reaction. You know it’s coming. You may need to scruff your cat for these few critical moments until the cat is over the flight reaction. Often keeping them wrapped in a towel helps while you are starting to run the warm water over them and you can remove the towel slowly before starting to shampoo. If it is a basin you are using, slowly back them into the water, hind legs first. When cats feel the warmth of the water they usually relax. Go slowly, Keep a firm grip until you feel them relax. Talk soothingly to them. Once the water is flowing over them and they are relaxed, you can usually stop scruffing and place your three middle fingers on top of the head and thumb and pinky below each ear to keep contact with your cat in a relaxed but alert manner. If your cat decides to make another break for it, your hand is there and ready to scruff temporarily until the flight reaction has passed again. By the second shampoo cycle, most cats are just sitting there enjoying the rubbing and warm water. Yes, you must shampoo and rinse twice (at least).

5. Because of the nature of the greasy hair, it is hard for the water to penetrate down to the roots. Run your hand back and forth on the cat’s body to flatten the hair and remove air pockets. Begin shampooing. Yes, you can wash the forehead and chin, just be mindful of shampoo or water getting in the ears or eyes. The shampoo and water should feel smooth against the cat’s body. If you are feeling textured or high spots, you need to add more shampoo or water. The cat should feel smooth to ensure you are getting down to the skin. Shampoo twice, thrice for very dirty cats.

6. Once you finish rinsing your cat, rinse one more time, and double check there are no suds left on the under or back side of the cat. Your cat’s hair should squeak on the back and chest. If it doesn’t squeak, it’s not clean, and you need to shampoo again. For basin washers, drain the water and refill to rinse. You may need to do this several times. Be mindful of the sucking noise some drains can make. It may startle your cat, so be prepared for it.

7. Place your cat in the middle of the open towel, perpendicular to the length. Fold the towel edge over the front paws, and then wrap one side around the cat, tucking the end underneath the body. Do the same for the other side. You now have a kitty burrito. Pat him gently while he’s lounging. This is the best time to clean the ears with witch hazel, and wipe out any crusty eye goop.

8. Make another kitty burrito with a new dry towel, wrapping securely at the front, but leaving a small gap at the back end. Prepare for another flight reaction moment. With your forearm resting along your cats back, and your hand resting on its head in preparation to scruff if necessary, turn on the blow dryer away from the cat. The blow dryer should never be on a hot setting. Once the cat has gotten over being startled, start blow drying at the rear, moving your dryer constantly in circles. Slowly uncover more of the cat as sections become dry. Like the bath, most cats relax and enjoy the warmth once they are over the initial flight reaction. Be sure to keep the dry away from the ears and face. Some cats prefer you keep a towel over their head.

9. Once the cat is 90% dry, you can begin combing with your steel comb, Easing out loose hair and small tangles. Gently roll your cat on it’s side and do the belly and underarms. It is important NOT to let your cat air dry, as it does increase mats and their severity. It is also important not to start combing until the cat is 90% dry in order to prevent hair breakage and damage.

10. Treats, toys, and loving but firm attitude during each step helps the entire process go much smoother.

In closing: You will find your cat soft, silky, very affectionate and personable in the next few days. Cats love to feel and look good, so it is important to praise them. Keep up your combing between baths, and love your cat.

I had a great time at the cat show this weekend. It is the first time I have gone to a trade show/event and actually represented myself. I felt the most comfortable and happy that I have ever been at an event. It’s not that I’ve ever misrepresented myself, or been less than genuine at previous trade shows or events for other companies I worked with, it’s a matter of passion, belief in what you do, and knowing no one can muck up or side-rail your efforts or convictions to provide services and information to your clients. You are your own business, and I believe strongly in sharing, informing, and coaching. If you need extra help, I’m here, just call or email.

If your cat is in optimum health, chances are you have very little problems with mats. Optimum health can be described as quality diet, glowing coat free of dirt and tangles, fresh smooth skin, and ideal weight. 

If your cat is passing into the golden years, has a lifestyle that could use improving, parasites, or an underlying health concern perhaps not yet diagnosed, you may have problems with reoccurring mats.

A mat is a interwoven tangle of hair. Mats have three main ingredients: dirty greasy hair, loose or damaged hair,  and moisture. The dirt and grease acts like a magnet attracting hairs to each other. The loose or damaged hair have open cuticles that snag and hold on to each other much like velcro or burrs. Add the final ingredient moisture, usually from salvia, and you have the glue that holds the woven mass together. Some cats are able to chew out the smaller reachable mats and self-maintain, others cannot.

Mats cause discomfort. With the constant friction of movement, the mats get ever tighter. Often there is secondary skin irritation underneath caused by the lack of air circulation, friction, and moisture – the perfect breeding ground for bacteria. Sometimes a mat can form around a pre-existing problem as the cat chews or licks itself in attempt for relief.

Simply combing or shaving out mats may seem to be the obvious and simple solution. (Please don’t ever take scissors to your cat. I’ve seen far too many well-meaning owners cut their own cats) In fact, that’s exactly what many pet salons offer to fix your problem. Plus they often avoid giving your cat what is really needs; a bath. This quick remedy of action just spreads around the dirt and grease more,  repeating the cycle faster. It becomes a vicious cycle of mats – shave- mats – shave. With every shave there is an element of risk, because cat skin is thin and easy to nick or cut. 

The only way to break the mat cycle is prevention.

Take a good look at your cat’s lifestyle. Maybe it’s time for a makeover. Changing to a better quality diet is the first step.  What’s happening on the outside, is a reflection of what’s going in. If you have a stout kitty, he simply can’t reach all the spots he used to. If your cat spends less than 30% of his waking hours grooming, your cat may have a undiagnosed health concern or depression. Time to visit the vet to rule out any unknown problems. As a pet parent, part of your responsibility is to ensure the well-being of your companion and pick up a comb to help out.

To get back on track and break the cycle  of mats, we need remove the ingredients that cause mats in the first place. A thorough proper, repeat twice, sometimes trice, cleansing bath, followed by a velocity blow dry will get rid of  the dirt, grease, and loose hair. The velocity drying will often break-apart mats into manageable smaller pieces to comb out. The velocity blow dry is a critical step.  If you just wash your cat and leave it to air dry, you have just made a definitive step towards creating FELT. The moisture will stay in the coat for days further cementing the mats into one large pelt. Image a moist sheet of wool rubbing up and down your back, weeks on end.  

To break the cycle, properly bathing your cat is unavoidable. Pet wipes just wipe the surface. Image rubbing a moist toilette on your head once every few weeks, and you get the picture. Waterless bath sprays are  a bit better, but it is necessary to completely soak your cat to try and get down to the skin, then pat dry thoroughly, followed by a high powered, but cool to warm, blow dry (not hot). Combing wet hair will stretch and damage the hair cuticles further, so start combing only after the cat is 90% dry. Either method is not as effective as a full immersion cleansing bath. The goal is to lift and remove dirt and grease from the skin and hair and to rinse it away. It simply isn’t possible using wipes or sprays alone.

A clean cat is a happy, soft, silky, joy and wonder to behold. To maintain a mat-free lifestyle that promotes clean and less loose hair, I recommend bathing and velocity drying your cat a least once a season for short haired cats and bi-monthly for long haired.  Your cat’s maintenance cycle may be shorter or longer and vary depending on the health, age, and individual needs. No two cats (even littermates) have the same  needs. Combing regularly between baths helps remove loose hair. Less loose hair = less shedding + less hairballs + less mats.

If your cat has mats that are in awkward places, too large or tight to remove safely, please get professional grooming help from a certified feline master groomer.  You should never put your cat in discomfort, risk injury, nor damage your relationship of trust with your feline friend.

Cat grooming is risky. It can be dangerous for the cat, and it can be dangerous for the groomer. It is a professional’s job to understand the potential risks and trying to minimize them.

This week there was a challenging groom. A badly matted elderly Persian with a bad attitude. Although the hair hadn’t formed a solid pelt, yet, it was still badly matted throughout, even the legs and head. As usual, the tightest mats were in the trickiest, most dangerous places to access on a cat. I wasn’t going to torture the cat by trying to de-mat it. The only option was to shave it all off and start over.

Doing a temperament and physical assessment confirmed my first impressions. This cat needed help desperately but was going to fight every step of the way. Being properly prepared in advance with an action plan, tools and equipment within easy reach, plus speed certainly made all the difference. No one was injured, except maybe a certain kitty’s pride. She was certainly feeling much better afterwards, especially after the bath. How could any creature have a positive outlook when every step is painful from hair tugging from the knots. The bruising exposed under the knots tells the tale.

This groom could have gone very badly in the wrong context, fortunately this cat came to the right place. Not to say I will or can do all cats. If I can’t handle it alone, I will refer those cats to grooming under vet supervision. That option is unfortunately very expensive. Using multiple people to handle or restrain a cat, in my opinion, makes the cat even more defensive, aggressive, and multiplying the risk of injury.

So why intervene? Why risk hurting the cat, or getting yourself hurt? Compassion actually. Call it tough love, or advocating for cats, but someone has to help them. You can’t just ignore the filth, the mats, the sores, or the bruising. They won’t go away by themselves. So risk assessment is necessary, a plan of action to correct a situation, and a maintenance schedule put in place to prevent it from happening again. It is the right and humane thing to do.

I want to come clean. I was a “pet groomer” too.

I had had a cat. Typical short haired domestic. Was I prepared to groom them professionally? Was I really qualified for the title Master Pet Stylist?

No way. Master Dog Stylist, perhaps.

Looking back I realize how completely out of my depth I was, and how  unprepared the majority of “pet groomers” are when it comes to professionally grooming cats. Now to make myself very clear, I am NOT trashing fellow groomers, because it’s not their fault. I know this because 15 years ago when I started doing cats, I realized I knew nothing about their specific handling or breed standard grooming. So I went searching for feline mentors, a school or course. I found none. So here is truth unleashed.

1. They don’t teach cat grooming at pet grooming school. When I went to one of the top grooming schools in the U.S. to later fine-tune my pet styling, I saw ONE cat (for 30 students). One very brave cat. It wasn’t part of the course curriculum, no zoology was discussed and there was no quantity of cats coming through the door to learn on. I didn’t learn anything about feline temperaments, handling skills, diseases, styling options, etc. It was all dog biased. Like typical grooming salons everywhere, a cat is a novelty tacked on at the end of all the other dog services.

2. Dog Pet salons are designed for dogs. The cat is a very different species. Everything from the tables, tubs, dryers, tools, shampoos, restraints, and cages are designed for dogs. This does not bode well for the feline who has more sensitive hearing, highly reactive to change, tissue paper thin skin, different hair and a fight or flight mentality. They also hate the car ride. They are also well-armed. The whole grooming process we are taught, from start to finish, doesn’t work for cats. So it can be very dangerous and hazardous to the cat and the groomer.

3. They don’t feel good about the end result. I’ve been there. I also know that most groomers will tell you that your cat (who is shedding, has dandruff and messy bottom) doesn’t need a bath because they don’t want to be the one to do it. Think about it. The odds of a cat groom going well is heavily stacked against success. They didn’t get proper training. They don’t know safe and quick procedures to minimize feline stress. The salon environment is noisy and filled with dogs. They don’t know or have access to feline specific tools and products. What typically ends up happening is you get a damp, greasy and freaked-out cat back, plus a hefty price tag. What pet groomer could feel good about doing that? They don’t. So they prefer, consciously or not, to avoid it. “Cats groom themselves.” If the cat ends up a a pet salon, it’s because there is a problem. Shedding, mats, etc. As professionals we want to help, but the majority of us are ill-equipped. Fortunately, change is on the wind.

Cats do need baths. Some more than others. Educate yourself, and advocate for your cat. Prevent mats, shedding, hairballs, and other nasties that come from dirty loose hair. Get professional feline specific training. I’m grateful for mine and it made all the difference. By the end of a grooming session that includes dematting, bath, high velocity drying and sanitary trim, I have purring clients. How is that possible?I know know what I’m doing. I became a Certified Feline Master Groomer with the National Cat Grooming Institute of America.  Teaching pet grooming in the Middle East where most of the client are washed and styled cats, not dogs, certainly accelerated my learning curve and skills

When done correctly, the bath is what felines like the best of the cat grooming process. I know this after doing hundreds of cat baths. But it has to be done right. With the right handling, equipment, and products. And no dogs allowed.

Did you know that it is there are an estimated 8.4 million cats in Canada and that 53% are Obese? That means they are at least 20% more than their healthy body weight. 

Did you know that Domestic Short-haired cats are the most prone to obesity?

What does this mean for grooming? 

If you are still in the Dark Ages and believe cats groom themselves, more than 1/2 are having a grooming and hygiene crisis. We are creating a situation where cats can no longer groom themselves. Their body mass is getting in the way. They just can’t stretch and reach like they are supposed to. Take a look at these pictures. Sad but true. I see this on a daily basis, and I’m happy to situation better for the cat and owner.

When a cat gets to an obese size there are many other health-related issues to consider. Be sure the vet has checked your cat and given the green light before grooming. Cats hide illness very well. Just for starters, obesity puts your cat at risk for:

• 2x greater risk for skin conditions
• heart and respiratory distress
• 4x higher risk for diabetes
• strain on the the joints
• liver disease
• depression. 

A cat that doesn’t feel good is a very cranky cat. A cranky cat is a tough customer to groom. They get very upset about the state of their backend which they can’t reach. It’s probably pretty sore back there too from neglect.

This doesn’t mean you should avoid grooming. In fact, they will feel much better after grooming. 

Some people opt for shaving their super sized cats to help keep themselves clean. While this is a good short-term solution along with regular bathing, it does not address the overall mental and physical health of your feline friend. Your cat is hardwired to hunt, scratch, and self-groom  A blob can’t do any of these, which can lead to depression.

An average-sized cat is 10 lbs. Any weight loss must done slowly and under veterinary supervision. A cat’s natural body chemistry and metabolism is a finicky balance and sudden changes can lead to internal organ shut downs. 

Professional grooming a super-sized kitty requires special handling skills. Any sign of stress can be particularly dangerous to the health of the cat. Handing the equivalent of 20 lbs of mud or more in a 10 lb bag armed with sharp nails and teeth can be awkward and hard to handle.


Which leads to questions of extra service charges for the over-sized cat….

Is it unreasonable to charge extra for an oversized cat?

It uses more product, time, and energy to complete a groom and they usually arrive in “crisis” condition before getting on a regular grooming routine.

How would YOU feel you were charged a “plus-size cat fee”? 

What would be a reasonable cut-off point for healthy-size vs. super-sized? 

Would a weight scale be required to be objective and fair, or would it be more humiliating?

I’d love to hear your opinions.

Does my cat need a bath? I hope you aren’t still in the Dark Ages when it comes to the care and maintenance of your cat. If it has skin and hair it needs occasional to frequent bathing depending on quality of hair and general health.

Bathing is good for the mental and physical well-being of your cat. No, it won’t dry out the skin and coat unless you are bathing twice a week or more. Whether you are bathing to resolve current issues or bathing for prevention, proper introduction and regular routine will help to make the process enjoyable for everyone. And yes, even short-haired cats get mats and dandruff.

Here’s how to tell when your cat needs a bath.

#1. It is shedding.

Most animals have a bi-annual shed cycle if it lives outdoors. If you have an indoor or indoor/outddor cat, you will experience shedding all year round. This is because the hair growth cycle is triggered by hours of light.

Loose hair is bad news. The cat’s tongue barbs are designed so that once hair is collected while self-grooming it it can’t be spat out. It can only go one way –  down the gullet – and that means hairballs. Brushing definitely helps but a warm exfoliating bath followed by a blow dry makes a huge difference. Short-haired cats actually shed more than long-haired due to the more frequent life cycle of their hair.

If no outfit is complete without cat hair, or you think you need to buy hairball laxatives, what you really need is to get your properly cat groomed.

#2. It has dandruff.Dandruff/Dander is a subject for a whole other blog post. Either is unsightly, and unhygienic. Dead skin and dried salvia……mmmmmmm yummy. And it’s left everywhere your cat has been. Think about it. Pet wipes just smear it around and brushing seems to only break it into ever smaller particles.

Only a thorough bath regularly will help resolve this problem. And please, don’t use conditioner or a medicated shampoo. On a cat, this is NOT the answer (trust me) and it will only create a vicious cycle of flakes. More on this subject, another time.

#3. It is greasy.

If you can mohawk it, create parts and peaks, looks clumpy, feels like Brillo cream; it needs a bath. Cats are naturally oily for weatherproofing. As a matter of fact, they are oilier than dogs, plus they have finer hair to absorb all that grease. Being indoors does not turn off Mother Nature’s  grand design of waterproofing.

Ever seen an unwashed Sphynx cat? It gets yellow, lard-like deposits in the folds of it’s skin and black grease covering the nails. We only see it because it is a hairless cat. Your furry cats produce the same oils, it’s just absorbed into the hair.

Greasy hair attracts dirt. Dirty hair velcros to other hair stands, creating mats, (even on short-haired cats) resulting in greasy, dirty, smelly, matted, messy, and unhappy kitty.

Don’t neglect your cat just because you assume myths like “cats groom themselves” and “cats hate water” are true. How bad does it have to get before humane intervention is considered? A regular routine of bathing will keep your narcissistic feline clean, a pleasure to snuggle and caress, and mats, a thing of the past.