02 Dec

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25 Nov

Static Kitty – 8 Strategies to Reduce Winter Cat Static

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It’s officially winter.

Now that the windows are closed and the indoor heating is on, we have a lot of static charge building up in our homes. This affects not only us but our pets.

Static is caused when two different objects with opposing (positive and a negative) ion charge are rubbed together. The electrons from one object is then transferred to the other causing them to take on the same charge. Just like magnets, when you have two objects with the same charge, they will repel one another, making the hair stand on end.

The minute the temperature dips and the air dries up, electrons, which are negatively-charged, fly off  hair, leaving the strands with positive charges that resist one another. Thus cats with thin, limp, fine and otherwise vulnerable hair are hit hard with static.

Here are some steps to avoid a static kitty.

1. Get rid of your plastic combs or brushes. Plastic is such an excellent conductor of electricity, that in high school experiments to show how to create static and sparks,  they use cat hair (no kidding) and a plastic rod rubbed together (that’s also why the rub a ballon on your hair and stick it to the wall trick works so well). Do not torture your cat by duplicating a high school experiment for your grooming routine.

2. Do wash your cat, (as there is nothing more unsightly than a greasy but staticy cat), in a effective, cleansing cat appropriate shampoo (like Chubbs Bars) but add a very l-i-g-h-t mist of Argan oil while still damp before you blow dry. You cannot add any Argan oil unless your cat is squeaky clean (literally) during the final rinse. You don’t want to increase grease to your cat by adding conditioner or oil to still greasy hair. Too little argan oil is much better than too much.

3. Before brushing, lightly mist with water, preferably distilled water. It will neutralize ions and reduce hair breakage. This pre-step should be done year-round as part of your grooming routine.

4. Blow dry with a ion reducing blowdryer. It does make a difference.

5. Use metal combs or grooming tools. They will absorb much of the static charge build-up. In fact you can gently rub your cat with a metal clothes hanger it will calm the hair during a major static attack. Introduce it carefully, as you don’t want to spook your cat.

6. If you have a major static attack happening, I would do the following: mist lightly with water, use a metal comb that I have pre-stroked with a dryer sheet. Do NOT rub the dryer sheet on your cat. Remember they lick themselves and will ingest chemicals otherwise.

7. Reduce static in your home by increasing the humidity in the air. This can be done by using a humidifier, or running a steamy shower. If you have an ongoing static problem, you need to add moisture to the air. It will make the home environment more comfortable for your cat and you.

8. Have your cat professionally groomed to remove impurities that attract dirt and restore a healthy balance of ions in the skin and hair.


22 Nov

Flakey Cat? Get Rid of Dandruff On Your Cat, Clothes, and Furniture – by Janet Wormitt

PictureThis hair was washed only 6 weeks previously. Notice the hair separating, the flakes, and the tabby markings less defined. This cat is only somewhat dirty.

Take a good look at your cat. Does it have large flakes down the back? Does it feel a bit greasy, and does the hair separate? The good news is, your cat is not suffering from dry skin or hair. If it has dry skin, the flakes would be very tiny and there would be evidence of dryness on other parts of the body. If you check its belly, you’ll see the dry skin clearly. It is actually rare to see dry skin on a cat, because they are naturally oily.

But if you have large white/yellow flakes down the back, you have either seborrheic dermatitis, or cat that is so dirty that the oil, skin cells, and dried saliva has built up to the point of flakey kitty pastry, and a potent allergen concoction. That’s right, it is depositing its skin, grease, and salvia all over your clothes, furniture, bed, and home. Yummy.

Typical story: We have a new client who has a short haired cat that was always full of dandruff and getting mats down its back. Previous “professional” help had consisted of combing out the mats on an ever increasing cycle. The problem was happening more frequently and worse each time. She was frustrated and grossed out. Visiting our salon, we inquired as to the last time the cat had had a bath. The shocked owner replied that the cat had never been bathed in its entire 8 year life….to be continued.

The chances of having dandruff increases with age and being male (just like humans, there are more oil producing glands due to hormones, making men more prone to dandruff), although females can still have dandruff too. Other important factors is a diet that is lacking in fats, vitamin B, and zinc. So you may need to re-evaluate the quality of your cat’s food. What goes in, reflects on the exterior and you will need at least 6 weeks to see a difference. Dandruff can also be due to stress or an undiagnoised illness. If your cat is on a good quality diet, gets a thumbs up from the vet on its health, then you have a dirty cat. Plain and simple.

Many people unknowingly believe the dandruff and often accompanying static is caused by dry skin. Not so. Probably the worst thing you can do is put oily conditioner on top of an already greasy cat. Static problems have more to do with an exchange of positive electrons than dryness, but that is a subject for another blog.

So if you want to effectively resolve dandruff here are some typical band-aid solutions that WILL NOT WORK:

1. Brushing and combing – a good daily practice to remove loose hair and exfoliate the skin, but will not remove existing dandruff in the hair or on the skin. It just helps spread it around more.

2. Wipes or drybath sprays – it might wipe the surface, but doesn’t get to the root cause. Not an effective useful long-term solution.

3. Conditioning sprays – please no. This will make your cat greaser and still not solve your problem. Yuck.

Think logically here, and put all those myths you’ve heard about cats to one side for a moment.The only way to effectively resolve dandruff is to remove the oil and dander by proper cleansing the hair and skin by bathing with a cat appropriate shampoo and thorough rinsing to flush away all the residue. One without conditioner. You must then establish a regular washing schedule.

PictureNo flakes, no separation of hair, and clear definition of tabby markings.

Getting back to our dandruffy cat story:

After some convincing the owner, desperate for a solution, relented and allowed us to bathe and properly groom her cat, start to finish. After 4 wash/rinse cycles to remove 8 years of typical cat owning ignorance (not her fault), the dandruff and mats were gone. The hair was smooth and shiny, and you could clearly see the tabby stripping that had been obscured since adolesence. The cat was grateful, purring, and happy. The owner was astonished at the difference and rebooked for another wash in six weeks.

I know you are surprised that the cat was getting another bath in “only” six weeks. Sure enough, when the owner arrived, you could see just the beginning of new dandruff, he was starting to get greasy again, and the owner was happy to report that there had not been any shedding hair or dandruff up until just a few days before and that brushing in the meantime had been unnecessary. It was the perfect time to have another bath and blow dry to prevent any problems and keep him clean. The owner immediately rebooked her cat for another appointment in six weeks. She had the seen the light, and it was a clean and happy cat. Simply washing it on a regular schedule had made a big difference in their quality of life together and had eliminated the dandruff.


11 Nov

Bathe a Cat With Less Fear – by Janet Wormitt

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I spent the last two weekends speaking at local pet events about the feline care and trying to bring them into 21st century standards of hygiene. The audience was overwhelmingly positive (hooray!) and recognized that their cats where pretty dirty, however frozen with fear at the notion of undertaking a cat bath themselves.

Well, you don’t have to. That’s why I’m here. To help you and your feline maintain a peaceful and healthy relationship. BUT, if you are determined to take the plunge, let me help with some advice and suggestions. Preparation and planning are the keys.

Desensitizing may be necessary for some, especially those with a previous bad experience. Usually those with absolutely no experience do fine, as long as you go slowly. Desensitizing means running water and/or blowdrying in the background paired with positive things, like treats, toys, playtime. We are trying to reduce a cat’s natural tendency to bolt when they are unsure of a situation. This may take a day or two, or weeks, depending on your cat’s individual tolerance and social skills. If these sounds can be happening in the same room without a disappearance act, you are ready.

Things to think about ahead of time:

B. Have your cat thoroughly combed out, not brushed. If your cat is matted, stop now. You definitely need professional help. Bathing a matted cat at home will only result in larger and tighter mats. Call a professional to help get your cat back on track, and then you may be able to consider continuing the maintenance at home.

C. Bath location. It must be up high to make the cat feel secure, and not so deep that it becomes an echo chamber. This means the bathtub is ruled out for the majority of cats. Kitchen sinks work well, especially if they have a flexible hose.

D. Shampoo. If you are going to undertake bathing a cat, you want good results with minimal fuss. Human and pet shampoos are not designed for a cat’s naturally greasy hair. They are designed for dogs. Cat specific shampoos are so benign that they don’t work at all.  You need to find a safe shampoo that can cut the grease easily, but no ingredients that are toxic when ingested. This means no d’limonene, essential oils, solvents, dish detergent, or aloe (a common ingredient in cat shampoos thats on the ASPCA Pet Poison list.  I use mostly organic, vegan Chubbs Bars because it is cat safe and does a fabulous job in purifying dirty skin and hair.

E.Attitude. You must remain calm and in control at all times. Patience and understanding is a requirement for this to be a good experience.


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Bath Day:

1. I recommend wearing long sleeves. Assemble your bath kit and have everything in arm’s length: Minimum 2 towels, cup for rinsing if no hose available, shampoo, witch hazel for ear cleaning, cotton balls, baby washcloth for face washing, nail trimmers, blow dryer, fine-toothed steel comb. Lay the towels open ready to receive a wet cat.

2. Start running the warm water in the sink from the hose. If you have no hose, fill the basin with warm water. Keep the sound of water running in the background while you move onto the next step.

3. Bring your cat within 10 feet of the sink. With treats or toys available, trim your cats nails FIRST. They have 18+ claws and are not hesitant in using you as a scratching post. Be sensible and disarm them. If your cat is a wiggler, escape artist, or potentially aggressive, wrap them in a towel and extract one paw at a time to do the job. Timid cats often feel more secure if their heads are under the towel.

4. This is the critical and sensitive step. Bring your cat slowly over to the sink. Be prepared for the flight reaction. You know it’s coming. You may need to scruff your cat for these few critical moments until the cat is over the flight reaction. Often keeping them wrapped in a towel helps while you are starting to run the warm water over them and you can remove the towel slowly before starting to shampoo. If it is a basin you are using, slowly back them into the water, hind legs first. When cats feel the warmth of the water they usually relax. Go slowly, Keep a firm grip until you feel them relax. Talk soothingly to them. Once the water is flowing over them and they are relaxed, you can usually stop scruffing and place your three middle fingers on top of the head and thumb and pinky below each ear to keep contact with your cat in a relaxed but alert manner. If your cat decides to make another break for it, your hand is there and ready to scruff temporarily until the flight reaction has passed again. By the second shampoo cycle, most cats are just sitting there enjoying the rubbing and warm water. Yes, you must shampoo and rinse twice (at least).

5. Because of the nature of the greasy hair, it is hard for the water to penetrate down to the roots. Run your hand back and forth on the cat’s body to flatten the hair and remove air pockets. Begin shampooing. Yes, you can wash the forehead and chin, just be mindful of shampoo or water getting in the ears or eyes. The shampoo and water should feel smooth against the cat’s body. If you are feeling textured or high spots, you need to add more shampoo or water. The cat should feel smooth to ensure you are getting down to the skin. Shampoo twice, thrice for very dirty cats.

6. Once you finish rinsing your cat, rinse one more time, and double check there are no suds left on the under or back side of the cat. Your cat’s hair should squeak on the back and chest. If it doesn’t squeak, it’s not clean, and you need to shampoo again. For basin washers, drain the water and refill to rinse. You may need to do this several times. Be mindful of the sucking noise some drains can make. It may startle your cat, so be prepared for it.


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7. Place your cat in the middle of the open towel, perpendicular to the length. Fold the towel edge over the front paws, and then wrap one side around the cat, tucking the end underneath the body. Do the same for the other side. You now have a kitty burrito. Pat him gently while he’s lounging. This is the best time to clean the ears with witch hazel, and wipe out any crusty eye goop.

8. Make another kitty burrito with a new dry towel, wrapping securely at the front, but leaving a small gap at the back end. Prepare for another flight reaction moment. With your forearm resting along your cats back, and your hand resting on its head in preparation to scruff if necessary, turn on the blow dryer away from the cat. The blow dryer should never be on a hot setting. Once the cat has gotten over being startled, start blow drying at the rear, moving your dryer constantly in circles. Slowly uncover more of the cat as sections become dry. Like the bath, most cats relax and enjoy the warmth once they are over the initial flight reaction. Be sure to keep the dry away from the ears and face. Some cats prefer you keep a towel over their head.

9. Once the cat is 90% dry, you can begin combing with your steel comb, Easing out loose hair and small tangles. Gently roll your cat on it’s side and do the belly and underarms. It is important NOT to let your cat air dry, as it does increase mats and their severity. It is also important not to start combing until the cat is 90% dry in order to prevent hair breakage and damage.

10. Treats, toys, and loving but firm attitude during each step helps the entire process go much smoother.

In closing: You will find your cat soft, silky, very affectionate and personable in the next few days. Cats love to feel and look good, so it is important to praise them. Keep up your combing between baths, and love your cat.


04 Nov

Ottawa Valley Cat Club Cat Show – by Janet Wormitt

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I had a great time at the cat show this weekend. It is the first time I have gone to a trade show/event and actually represented myself. I felt the most comfortable and happy that I have ever been at an event. It’s not that I’ve ever misrepresented myself, or been less than genuine at previous trade shows or events for other companies I worked with, it’s a matter of passion, belief in what you do, and knowing no one can muck up or side-rail your efforts or convictions to provide services and information to your clients. You are your own business, and I believe strongly in sharing, informing, and coaching. If you need extra help, I’m here, just call or email.


28 Oct

Anatomy of a Cat Mat – by Janet Wormitt

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If your cat is in optimum health, chances are you have very little problems with mats. Optimum health can be described as quality diet, glowing coat free of dirt and tangles, fresh smooth skin, and ideal weight. 

If your cat is passing into the golden years, has a lifestyle that could use improving, parasites, or an underlying health concern perhaps not yet diagnosed, you may have problems with reoccurring mats.

A mat is a interwoven tangle of hair. Mats have three main ingredients: dirty greasy hair, loose or damaged hair,  and moisture. The dirt and grease acts like a magnet attracting hairs to each other. The loose or damaged hair have open cuticles that snag and hold on to each other much like velcro or burrs. Add the final ingredient moisture, usually from salvia, and you have the glue that holds the woven mass together. Some cats are able to chew out the smaller reachable mats and self-maintain, others cannot.

Mats cause discomfort. With the constant friction of movement, the mats get ever tighter. Often there is secondary skin irritation underneath caused by the lack of air circulation, friction, and moisture – the perfect breeding ground for bacteria. Sometimes a mat can form around a pre-existing problem as the cat chews or licks itself in attempt for relief.

Simply combing or shaving out mats may seem to be the obvious and simple solution. (Please don’t ever take scissors to your cat. I’ve seen far too many well-meaning owners cut their own cats) In fact, that’s exactly what many pet salons offer to fix your problem. Plus they often avoid giving your cat what is really needs; a bath. This quick remedy of action just spreads around the dirt and grease more,  repeating the cycle faster. It becomes a vicious cycle of mats – shave- mats – shave. With every shave there is an element of risk, because cat skin is thin and easy to nick or cut. 

The only way to break the mat cycle is prevention.

Take a good look at your cat’s lifestyle. Maybe it’s time for a makeover. Changing to a better quality diet is the first step.  What’s happening on the outside, is a reflection of what’s going in. If you have a stout kitty, he simply can’t reach all the spots he used to. If your cat spends less than 30% of his waking hours grooming, your cat may have a undiagnosed health concern or depression. Time to visit the vet to rule out any unknown problems. As a pet parent, part of your responsibility is to ensure the well-being of your companion and pick up a comb to help out.

To get back on track and break the cycle  of mats, we need remove the ingredients that cause mats in the first place. A thorough proper, repeat twice, sometimes trice, cleansing bath, followed by a velocity blow dry will get rid of  the dirt, grease, and loose hair. The velocity drying will often break-apart mats into manageable smaller pieces to comb out. The velocity blow dry is a critical step.  If you just wash your cat and leave it to air dry, you have just made a definitive step towards creating FELT. The moisture will stay in the coat for days further cementing the mats into one large pelt. Image a moist sheet of wool rubbing up and down your back, weeks on end.  

To break the cycle, properly bathing your cat is unavoidable. Pet wipes just wipe the surface. Image rubbing a moist toilette on your head once every few weeks, and you get the picture. Waterless bath sprays are  a bit better, but it is necessary to completely soak your cat to try and get down to the skin, then pat dry thoroughly, followed by a high powered, but cool to warm, blow dry (not hot). Combing wet hair will stretch and damage the hair cuticles further, so start combing only after the cat is 90% dry. Either method is not as effective as a full immersion cleansing bath. The goal is to lift and remove dirt and grease from the skin and hair and to rinse it away. It simply isn’t possible using wipes or sprays alone.

A clean cat is a happy, soft, silky, joy and wonder to behold. To maintain a mat-free lifestyle that promotes clean and less loose hair, I recommend bathing and velocity drying your cat a least once a season for short haired cats and bi-monthly for long haired.  Your cat’s maintenance cycle may be shorter or longer and vary depending on the health, age, and individual needs. No two cats (even littermates) have the same  needs. Combing regularly between baths helps remove loose hair. Less loose hair = less shedding + less hairballs + less mats.

If your cat has mats that are in awkward places, too large or tight to remove safely, please get professional grooming help from a certified feline master groomer.  You should never put your cat in discomfort, risk injury, nor damage your relationship of trust with your feline friend.


14 Oct

Do’s and Don’ts of Cat Grooming at Home – by Janet Wormitt

Don’ts

Never, ever take scissors to your cat. I can’t tell you how often we see open scissor cuts on cats from well-meaning owners trying to cut mats out.

Don’t be satisfied with a comb-out only. You might get some of the mats, but you will be just spreading around the source of the matting: the greasy oily hair. Your cat will mat again, but even faster. A proper bath cuts the grease and makes a HUGE difference.

Don’t just wash your cat without a professional blow-dry. Any loose hair still left in the coat will become hairballs or matting later if left to air dry. It’s the same method we use to create felt.

Don’t use products or equipments not specifically designed or made for felines. It can result in toxic reactions, even death.

Don’t assume short-hair cats don’t need baths. They actually shed more and mat too when they are dirty.

Don’t wait. If your cat is greasy, smelly, dandruffy, has hairballs, sheds, or a dirty bottom GET PROFESSIONAL HELP. It is the humane and sanitary thing to do.

Do’s

Do keep an open mind and educate yourself and others on the humane treatment of cats. Cats actually like water. Cats enjoy baths if properly introduced and with the right equipment and procedure.

Do think like a cat. Consider their perspective and their nature when grooming.

Do prepare ahead before attempting any grooming or bathing. Anything you need should be within arms reach.

Do trim nails first. There are a least 18 of them that they will not hesitate to use should they disagree with you.

Do have your feline friend professionally groomed regularly. They will be healthier, shed less, be happier, and you’ll love the results.

Do consider different grooming styles for your needs. Got allergies? Asthma? Heavy shedding? There is help available. Talk to a feline professional for options and solutions.

30 Sep

The Risks of Being Humane – by Janet Wormitt

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Cat grooming is risky. It can be dangerous for the cat, and it can be dangerous for the groomer. It is a professional’s job to understand the potential risks and trying to minimize them.

This week there was a challenging groom. A badly matted elderly Persian with a bad attitude. Although the hair hadn’t formed a solid pelt, yet, it was still badly matted throughout, even the legs and head. As usual, the tightest mats were in the trickiest, most dangerous places to access on a cat. I wasn’t going to torture the cat by trying to de-mat it. The only option was to shave it all off and start over.

Doing a temperament and physical assessment confirmed my first impressions. This cat needed help desperately but was going to fight every step of the way. Being properly prepared in advance with an action plan, tools and equipment within easy reach, plus speed certainly made all the difference. No one was injured, except maybe a certain kitty’s pride. She was certainly feeling much better afterwards, especially after the bath. How could any creature have a positive outlook when every step is painful from hair tugging from the knots. The bruising exposed under the knots tells the tale.

This groom could have gone very badly in the wrong context, fortunately this cat came to the right place. Not to say I will or can do all cats. If I can’t handle it alone, I will refer those cats to grooming under vet supervision. That option is unfortunately very expensive. Using multiple people to handle or restrain a cat, in my opinion, makes the cat even more defensive, aggressive, and multiplying the risk of injury.

So why intervene? Why risk hurting the cat, or getting yourself hurt? Compassion actually. Call it tough love, or advocating for cats, but someone has to help them. You can’t just ignore the filth, the mats, the sores, or the bruising. They won’t go away by themselves. So risk assessment is necessary, a plan of action to correct a situation, and a maintenance schedule put in place to prevent it from happening again. It is the right and humane thing to do.


16 Sep

3 Dirty Secrets Why “Pet Groomers” Should Avoid Doing Cats – by Janet Wormitt

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I want to come clean. I was a “pet groomer” too.

I had had a cat. Typical short haired domestic. Was I prepared to groom them professionally? Was I really qualified for the title Master Pet Stylist?

No way. Master Dog Stylist, perhaps.

Looking back I realize how completely out of my depth I was, and how  unprepared the majority of “pet groomers” are when it comes to professionally grooming cats. Now to make myself very clear, I am NOT trashing fellow groomers, because it’s not their fault. I know this because 15 years ago when I started doing cats, I realized I knew nothing about their specific handling or breed standard grooming. So I went searching for feline mentors, a school or course. I found none. So here is truth unleashed.

1. They don’t teach cat grooming at pet grooming school. When I went to one of the top grooming schools in the U.S. to later fine-tune my pet styling, I saw ONE cat (for 30 students). One very brave cat. It wasn’t part of the course curriculum, no zoology was discussed and there was no quantity of cats coming through the door to learn on. I didn’t learn anything about feline temperaments, handling skills, diseases, styling options, etc. It was all dog biased. Like typical grooming salons everywhere, a cat is a novelty tacked on at the end of all the other dog services.

2. Dog Pet salons are designed for dogs. The cat is a very different species. Everything from the tables, tubs, dryers, tools, shampoos, restraints, and cages are designed for dogs. This does not bode well for the feline who has more sensitive hearing, highly reactive to change, tissue paper thin skin, different hair and a fight or flight mentality. They also hate the car ride. They are also well-armed. The whole grooming process we are taught, from start to finish, doesn’t work for cats. So it can be very dangerous and hazardous to the cat and the groomer.

3. They don’t feel good about the end result. I’ve been there. I also know that most groomers will tell you that your cat (who is shedding, has dandruff and messy bottom) doesn’t need a bath because they don’t want to be the one to do it. Think about it. The odds of a cat groom going well is heavily stacked against success. They didn’t get proper training. They don’t know safe and quick procedures to minimize feline stress. The salon environment is noisy and filled with dogs. They don’t know or have access to feline specific tools and products. What typically ends up happening is you get a damp, greasy and freaked-out cat back, plus a hefty price tag. What pet groomer could feel good about doing that? They don’t. So they prefer, consciously or not, to avoid it. “Cats groom themselves.” If the cat ends up a a pet salon, it’s because there is a problem. Shedding, mats, etc. As professionals we want to help, but the majority of us are ill-equipped. Fortunately, change is on the wind.

Cats do need baths. Some more than others. Educate yourself, and advocate for your cat. Prevent mats, shedding, hairballs, and other nasties that come from dirty loose hair. Get professional feline specific training. I’m grateful for mine and it made all the difference. By the end of a grooming session that includes dematting, bath, high velocity drying and sanitary trim, I have purring clients. How is that possible?I know know what I’m doing. I became a Certified Feline Master Groomer with the National Cat Grooming Institute of America.  Teaching pet grooming in the Middle East where most of the client are washed and styled cats, not dogs, certainly accelerated my learning curve and skills

When done correctly, the bath is what felines like the best of the cat grooming process. I know this after doing hundreds of cat baths. But it has to be done right. With the right handling, equipment, and products. And no dogs allowed.


26 Aug

Fat Cats Can’t Groom – by Janet Wormitt

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Did you know that it is there are an estimated 8.4 million cats in Canada and that 53% are Obese? That means they are at least 20% more than their healthy body weight. 

Did you know that Domestic Short-haired cats are the most prone to obesity?

What does this mean for grooming

If you are still in the Dark Ages and believe cats groom themselves, more than 1/2 are having a grooming and hygiene crisis. We are creating a situation where cats can no longer groom themselves. Their body mass is getting in the way. They just can’t stretch and reach like they are supposed to. Take a look at these pictures. Sad but true. I see this on a daily basis, and I’m happy to situation better for the cat and owner.

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When a cat gets to an obese size there are many other health-related issues to consider. Be sure the vet has checked your cat and given the green light before grooming. Cats hide illness very well. Just for starters, obesity puts your cat at risk for:

  • 2x greater risk for skin conditions
  • heart and respiratory distress
  • 4x higher risk for diabetes
  • strain on the the joints
  • liver disease
  • depression. 

A cat that doesn’t feel good is a very cranky cat. A cranky cat is a tough customer to groom. They get very upset about the state of their backend which they can’t reach. It’s probably pretty sore back there too from neglect.

This doesn’t mean you should avoid grooming. In fact, they will feel much better after grooming. 

Some people opt for shaving their super sized cats to help keep themselves clean. While this is a good short-term solution along with regular bathing, it does not address the overall mental and physical health of your feline friend. Your cat is hardwired to hunt, scratch, and self-groom  A blob can’t do any of these, which can lead to depression.


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An average-sized cat is 10 lbs. Any weight loss must done slowly and under veterinary supervision. A cat’s natural body chemistry and metabolism is a finicky balance and sudden changes can lead to internal organ shut downs. 

Professional grooming a super-sized kitty requires special handling skills. Any sign of stress can be particularly dangerous to the health of the cat. Handing the equivalent of 20 lbs of mud or more in a 10 lb bag armed with sharp nails and teeth can be awkward and hard to handle.


Which leads to questions of extra service charges for the over-sized cat….

Is it unreasonable to charge extra for an oversized cat?

It uses more product, time, and energy to complete a groom and they usually arrive in “crisis” condition before getting on a regular grooming routine.

How would YOU feel you were charged a “plus-size cat fee”? 

What would be a reasonable cut-off point for healthy-size vs. super-sized? 

Would a weight scale be required to be objective and fair, or would it be more humiliating?

I’d love to hear your opinions.


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